Why do hipsters or contrarians emerge in class systems? Something about countersignalling? Saturated hierarchies? (See ACX contra someone on hipsters)
The defining trait of hipsters is that they say they like shitty things. Think of the effect of seeing a shitty looking but popular (or old/still in business) restaurant. It suggests it has externally invisible good qualities to compensate. (This assumes a competitive environment, a shitty looking public service may well just be shitty) Similarly hipsters say they like shitty things, which signals discernment of hidden qualities. This is also why they say they like new things. Hipsterism is taste uber alles.